How chef Jason Liu reconnects with his Chinese roots at his new Beijing restaurant

In China’s fine-dining circle, Jason Liu He-sen cuts an unusual figure. Shy and soft-spoken with modelesque looks, the quietly ambitious chef commands attention both behind the pass and on the runway. Liu blurs the line between food and fashion, and his growing influence extends well beyond the kitchen. He walked the runway at Hermès’ spring/summer 2024 menswear show in Shanghai and soon after became the first chef to partner with Nike for its “Yes, Chef!” campaign, during which he wore the...