How a Hong Kong maker of authentic shrimp roe noodles is leading a comeback

Ha zi mein, or dried shrimp roe noodles, are a Cantonese household staple. Traditionally made from broth-infused dough that is steamed and then immediately baked dry to eliminate moisture, the noodles release the broth when boiled, turning the hot water into a rich, nutritious soup. As mass-produced versions dominate supermarket shelves, the artisanal craft of making ha zi mein – which is listed as part of Hong Kong’s intangible cultural heritage – is becoming increasingly rare. But Wing Lok...