A Hong Kong food staple is having a gourmet moment. Cantonese canned fish dessert, anyone?

Tins of fried dace with salted black beans – known as dau si leng yu in Cantonese – are a pantry staple in Hong Kong and in Cantonese-diaspora homes around the globe. Affordable, ready to eat and with a long shelf life, the canned food is a symbol of working-class resilience. And it is highly valued; in April 2023, a masked man in a black windbreaker allegedly stole 48 cans of dau si leng yu (worth HK$1,800 or US$230) from a supermarket in Sheung Shui in Hong Kong’s New Territories. Although the...